Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Last Minute Valley Trip

"What is there to do this weekend?!?", Dave asks. I reply with a grin, "I think the Valley is where it's at!" So the Valley it is! So after some discussion with Dave and Nicole, we decide to head out after work Thursday and find a campsite around Fish Camp. For those unaware of Fish Camp, Fish Camp is a town thirty minutes from the South entrance of Yosemite.  It worked, but it wouldn't be my first choice since it is like, "A 10 day trek from the valley" as Dave liked to state.

(Yosemite Meadows)

But the great thing was the weather was pretty bomber!  Just HOT!  On Friday, Seth, Dave, Nicole, and I went over to Manure Pile Buttress and climbed After Six (5.7), After Seven (5.8), C.S. Concerto (5.8), and Nutcracker (5.8) and we all learned that drinking water is needed not to be dehydrated.  It was pretty painful at the end of the day.  The great thing is that we all climbed over 12 pitches a piece!  And after that, we hit up the Curry Village Pizza and filled up every water bottle we had in the car. ;)


Seth left Friday night to meet his family in Kings Canyon and Garrett replaced him.  Saturday was a bit more tame.  Went over to Glacier Point Apron and climbed the Grack (5.6) and Hairy Daly (5.8) and then went over and climbed Bishops Terrace (5.8).  I was somewhat lame and sat out for Hairy Daly since I was burning up and Bishops Terrace since I climbed it 2 weeks before.  But Dave, Nicole, and Garrett tore it up!

(Hangin' at the car)

On Sunday, we decided to head up to climb some 5.7's, 5.8's, and a 5.9 at Knob Hill.  Amazing climbs, but way too short!  After climbing those, we headed down and climbed a 5.9 sport route and a climb called Suds (5.9) that kept you thinking the whole climb.  End is pretty splitter though!  Beautiful crack!

(Garrett climbing Bishop's Terrace)

After a long Sunday of climbing, we left the valley and hit up the A&W/KFC for an amazing dinner and root beer float before driving the lovely 5 hour drive back to L.A.

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

10 Day Climbing Buffet

Climbing for ten straight days sounds like a great idea, right?  Well, what about ten days of rain?  Sounds less appealing, huh.  Well, Justin, Seth, and I thought it would be a great idea to take three days off of work for the Memorial Day week and climb for tens straight days.  We planned on hitting up some of the best spots the sierras have to offer.  Lone Pine, Bishop area, Mammoth, and then finishing off in the Yosemite Valley.  This sounded awesome before the weather report started to change.

We planned on leaving on the Friday, drive up to Alabama Hills at Lone Pine so that we could have a full day of climbing on Saturday.  But after since that it was raining on Friday in Lone Pine, we decided to stall departure until Saturday morning.  So after some last minute errands and packing Travis, we arrived in Alabama Hills in the late afternoon.  We decided to warm up at Shark's Fin on a 5.7, 5.8, and then a interesting 5.10A that had a tricky start.  After that, we headed over to some other spots to climb some 5.8's and 5.9's where we all lead the routes.  

(Seth on the 5.10A on Shark's Fin)

After a good day of climbing, we check the forecast for Sunday and we all get bummed.  80% of rain EVERYWHERE and snow above 7000 feet!  This changes plans very quick since our thought of heading north to other spots just got smashed.  So after some cursing mother nature we decide to head south on the 395, connect to the 58, and drive to the south entrance to Yosemite.  Although it was a full day of driving, it was a moral booster to think we'd be in the valley for the rest of the week since the forecast was predicting a handful of splitter days during the week.

Arriving in the Valley late Sunday, we discover a worry we all had as we drove up.  No campsites!!!  Hm, well I guess time to park the camper van and hope we go undetected from the rangers.  Not the case... OPPS!  At 1 A.M., we are awaken by a lady ranger telling us that, "We must come out!".  Busted...  Although Justin and I are on the "Yosemite Shit List", we were able to score a campsite in Upper Pines for the rest of the week thanks to ranger Jane.

(Seth and I getting ready to crash in Travis)

So now with a campsite and hopes to climb some stellar climbs, we are all pretty psyched.  Now if only mother nature would play along.  This is not the case at all!  It rained more than half of the day everyday we were in the Valley.  Although it rained quite a lot, it didn't stop us from climbing some great routes.  Monday, we went and climbed Bishop's Terrace (5.8), a fun 5.10A where unfortunately Justin tweeked his shoulder.  Tuesday Seth and I climbed the Grack (5.6 and Seth's first multi-pitch climb lead).  Wednesday, Ira got into the valley and we attempted to climb After Six (5.7), but after the second pitch rain came in and we had to bail.

(Justin on the 5.10A)

After dealing with rain for the last five days and it not getting any better until Saturday, we decide to head back since sitting in a van all day is not as exciting as it sounds...  there goes the ten days of climbing.  SAD!

Now although the week didn't go as planned. Weather sucks, Justin injury, and never being able to get away without of bounds camping again... it was still a good time. As many say, "You could be at work..." and thankfully we were not. :)